Horseshoe Tour

Another bicycling-and-speaking tour, running from Baltimore to Detroit (through Richmond and Roanoke VA, Charlseton WV, and Portsmouth OH)

Wednesday, May 03, 2006

The Appalachians have hills!

1 May - Pearisburg VA to Beckley WV: partly cloudy, 50s to 70s; 8:30-4:10, 67.9 miles
Last night I chatted with Corunna Miel and Jetwash about AT memories. Thinking back to the segments I'd done in 1993, I said, "I remember one thru-hiker I met and spent two days with in New York. He called himself Purple Pilgrim."
Corunna perked up at that name. "I know a Purple Pilgrim!" she said. "I met him in... it was 1992 and 1993. He helped me when I left the trail!" We quickly verified we were talking of the same man. After 13 years -- what a small world!
Yesterday I felt like I'd cheated a bit skipping the 'hardest miles of the trip' crossing the Great Eastern Divide. Not anymore. I'll never know what we may have hit without the McElheney's help, but it couldn't have been more difficult than crossing the mountain coming out of Hinton. A 3 1/2 mile grueling climb, a quick 1 1/2 mile downhill, followed by another gut-busting 2 1/2 mile inching our way up, a 1 mile coast, and another 1/2 mile ascent. I haven't had a climb like that since crossing Rabbit Ears pass in Colorado in 2002, with my old bike. This was the first time I've used the lowest gear on this bike. (In fact, I shifted into low-low seven times during the climbs.)
Knowing I should arrive in Beckley no later than 4:00 to prepare for my library talk, I left Tim to climb the hills at his own pace. I did make it on time (barely), while Tim straggled in before 6:00. The evening was wonderful - they held a potluck at the library before my talk, where I met the staff and volunteers.
AFter my talk, one couple came forward to ask if I could speak at their schools tomorrow - luckily my schedule allowed it. Afterwards, my contact Gail McCray (who had allowed me to shower beforehand at her place) arranged for us to stay with Dany McMillion. Those wonderful ladies reminded me why I had named West Virginia one of the friendliest states on the walk.
CHARACTER SIGHTING: After finishing breakfast at Hardees, we got our bikes ready as an elderly gent came by to wash the windows. "How you doin'?" he asked.
"Fantastic!" I replied. "How about you?"
"Not as good as you, I guess!"
"That's because you're not biking!"
"Oh, lordy, don't get me near no bike! I'd crash and burn. I went out with my grandson the other day, and he kicked my butt. I kept looking for nails to run over - maybe if I got a flat, he'd take pity on me."
When our chuckles died down, he continued, "Besides, I'm a low-tech guy. When we were cycling, I told him we were lost. He pulled out a hand-held GPS and told me, 'We're not lost! The highway's right over there.' GPS! Heck, I'm still listening to 8-tracks!"

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